Beyond the Amphitheatre: Ivan Opens the Door to the Walls
Mark D’Agostino with help from Curt Ruffing
I’ve always wanted to hike into The Walls of Jericho. I never really knew exactly where they were
but I did know that they were on private land.
I had heard mention of pretty extreme class V rapids. In the last few years, they had popped up on
my radar screen a few times when someone would ask whether Turkey Creek had
been run through the walls. At least a
couple groups claimed to have made the run but I never had seen pictures. At long last, after the Nature Conservancy
purchased the property and even told us how to get there at a HCC meeting this
spring, I had to go at least look at it.
Curt and I hiked in via the AL 79 route from the east in the
spring of 2004. It was steep, but we
found The Walls, culminating in the amphitheatre and the famous cave where at
normal flows all the water flows over a big waterfall, into a pit, and then
through the rock wall for a few hundred yards.
Below this were lots of slides, a fair bit of wood, and nice
scenery. The fateful move was our
decision to find out what lay above the amphitheatre. Many have hiked into the amphitheatre but few have ventured
beyond. It was a fairly easy free climb
up a small cliff. We were apprehensive
about getting back down but went for it nonetheless. Above the amphitheatre, we found more excellent scenery and a
series of clean, very fun looking class IV drops.
I filed the trip in my memory, put it on my to-do list, but
did not take it too seriously. Access
was a major issue. I generally refuse
to walk up from the bottom of a run and this one would require several miles of
hiking just to get to the bottom. It
looked like you could get in from Tennessee to the north by hiking on logging
roads, but I never got around to verifying that the road was navigable to the
old cemetery where the trails begin.
Fortunately, Curt took the trip seriously. We were supposed to go to West Virginia, but
as Ivan approached, it seemed silly to travel.
When I asked him in the week leading up to Ivan’s arrival what he wanted
to do, he said, “that teacups run over in the walls of Jericho”. In a day or so I was psyched as well. We met for lunch on Tuesday so he could
borrow my GPS unit. He then drove up
that night to verify that we could get to the Little Mountain Cemetery. His report was positive, and the game was
on. All we needed was a crew and rain.
The rain fell in significant quantities on Thursday. We assembled a good group or four. Wade Amis and Brian McAnally joined Curt and
I. Both had climbing experience and are
great exploratory trip members – they almost never get mad. Wade and I had been through the Flat Rock /
Coon experience, and both he and Brian had suffered through Rice Creek. Each of the group members has been a
beneficiary and a victim of several of my wild goose chases in search of new
water. We all felt this first run should
be a decked boat affair, and in retrospect we were correct.
We knew we needed a long day. We left Gurley at 7:20am, left vehicles at the semi-flooded
take-out north of Estill Fork on CR9, met Brian, and were hiking in by
9:30am. We stopped several times along
the way to make sure we did not get off the correct old road. It was mostly flat or downhill. We had covered about 1.5 miles when a steep
uphill section at a small tributary confronted us. We decided to eschew the uphill and instead drag down the
travertine covered tiny creek. We put
on Turkey Creek about 0.5 miles above Poplar Creek confluence at 11am.
The first mile+ was fairly flat, as expected. Even though the area had just received 5-7
inches of rain, this section was bony.
It was pretty, but there were only some II’s and maybe a III. Then it all became worthwhile. The drops we had seen above the amphitheatre
were, if anything, better than I had expected.
They started off with a small ledge, then a boof, and then they got
bigger. A 10’ clean slide, a three part
rapid with the top under a high clearance undercut cliff– this was cool
stuff. The level here was about
right. Maybe a bit more would have been
better, but for a first run, this was very good. We could even easily run the rapids to within a short distance of
the mandatory amphitheatre portage.
The expedition really kicked in at the amphitheatre. As we were getting ready to lower boats down
past the unrunnable waterfall flowing into the pool where the cave starts, Curt
bumped into Wade’s stuff and knocked his paddle into the water 50’ below. Did we have a spare paddle? No.
Hand paddling time had evidently arrived.
We had hoped to run the drops below the mandatory
portage. The first rapid was no nig deal,
but it had a sticky looking hole that led directly into a 12’ waterfall, which
landed on rocks. This in turn fed into
the really big drop/slide that falls into the amphitheatre. , Though it would have made an incredible
picture, it was ~30’ of rock-induced pain waiting to happen So we lowered boats down the 12’er, lined
them through the last pool, then rappelled and lowered boats into the
amphitheatre. This took a while. We each ran the last part of the slide, and
Brian walked back up and tossed his paddle across the rapid to Wade so he would
not have to hand paddle it. Meanwhile,
I had cut out a pesky log that went across the next rapid with my Sven
saw. Wade ran the drop and began to don
the hand paddles. To Wade, the four
mile flat water paddle-out on Hurricane loomed even larger than the remaining
rapids on Turkey. I ran next. After landing, I glanced downstream and there
was Wade’s paddle. Sweet.
I continued my photo slut ways and ran that drop twice, made
Curt go ahead to take my picture, and generally irritated and amused Wade. The rest of the run was low water slides,
ledges, and rock gardens. The rock
gardens were highly boat abusive at this level. Curt’s Huck re-cracked for about the fifth time. By the time we paddled the four miles of
Hurricane in about 90 minutes or so, Curt was either dumping or carrying an
extra 20 gallons of water. A fitting
last run for the Huck.
Now that I’ve had time to reflect, this may have been the
most satisfying run I’ve ever done in Alabama.
It had hardship and great reward: hiking, paddling, rappelling,
incredible scenery, the works. We may
have been the first group to run above the amphitheatre. Amazingly, Bill Thornton and his group were
only an hour or two behind us. Even
harder to believe, the hiked out to Hwy 79!
Our run
through The Walls of Jericho was really all you could want in high exertion
paddling adventure. It took a fair bit
of planning and a willingness to take a chance on water, orienteering, fitness,
and the odd outdoor skill. As Curt puts
it, it is hard to
overemphasize the significance of a good crew in making the day so astounding.
The absence of real complaints regarding the hiking and trail confusion, Wade
not getting mad about Curt bumping his boat and the resulting paddle loss,
Brian's competence with the ropes, etc. allowed the enjoyment of the rapids,
scenery, and adventure to stay firmly in the forefront.